My blogs seem to focus around my Sundays even though I post on Wednesdays but, whatever…again, another Sunday that I think makes for some good reading (humble opinion that…)
I’ve moved towns again…now I’m in a city in the middle of Congo with the paradox of direct international flights to Nairobi, Kenya and yet a population of bicycles and motorbikes that must be 50 fold the population of vehicules…bizarre.
Anyway, as expected, I only had to ask one team member “Whose Catholic and could point me in the right direction for Mass on Sunday?”
“Ah, talk to the driver Jimmy, he’s a regular…” Jimmy is more than pleased that I ask such a favour and he offers to come to the base on Sunday morning to pick me up so we can go to the parish ‘just around the corner’. “Mass is at 9am…I’ll pick you up at 8.20 so we can be there for 8.30…” “Thank you, though why do we have to be there at 8.30?” “To get a seat of course!” You’d think it was Christmas Eve midnight mass…no no, just a regular Sunday folks.
“And between 8.30 and 9am what happens?” I enquire. He looks a little confused “We wait for Mass to start…” Ah, I should have guessed that one…people wait here, they’re not instantaneously and occidentally impatient! Ok, mental note, pack latest papal reading (by the way JP II’s Apostolic Exhortation “Christifideles Laici – Vocation and Mission of the Lay Faithful”…suuuper good…) for some reading.
Sunday morning I wake up feeling rather not on form (still adjusting to the new cook and the dodgy water), and not in any position to squish myself in the middle of a pew with no rapid exit strategy in case of emergency (if you get my gist). I call off the generous offer of Jimmy hoping I’ll be a little better later on.
A couple hours of ‘molo’ as they say here (gently does it) and I’m confident that I should be alright. Jimmy had said there was another Mass at 11am so, lacking a vehicle and relishing newfound freedom thanks to less strict security rules, I venture out on foot to find the parish ‘just around the corner’ for 11am Mass.
The heat of the day has already assumed it’s dominating role here…I’m charmingly soaked in sweat within minutes.
After asking for directions a couple of times (and receiving glances of utter confusion “what? A white person, walking?” I’d estimate there’s less than twenty muzungus in the whole city excluding the bolshy, sleazy military from one Anglophone country that will remain nameless…) I find something of a parish but there’s no Mass at 11am. Go to the Cathedral for twelve…ok jonny, on y va.
From my initial perceptions of the town layout, I think I have a reasonable sense of the direction of the Cathedral, in any case…it’s along the river…somewhere. I set off, without any bottled water which is not smart…and finish up making a grand circuit of the town until I finally rest my eyes on the relatively elegant cathedral.
On the way I buy a bottle of tonic because I can’t find anywhere selling water. The lady selling the drink insists I bring back the glass bottle (ironically recycling of glass bottles seems to work better in the Congo than I’ve seen in NZ…). I’ve already paid her almost double the price of the tonic cause I don’t have the change and she insists I shouldn’t miss out on my 5c extra that one receives for returning the bottle.
I enquire to some police if I’m on the right route and they say “No, you cant pass by here, you have to go in that direction…but you have to give me your tonic too…” Oh really? Which piece of local legislation demands that any half-drunk tonic must be given to police upon demand? Caught drinking and walking? No constable, there’s no gin in there… sigh, even in the littlest things it seems like the entire aim is to trump any gullible person possible…corruption sucks.
I arrive to the cathedral to see crowds pouring out from Mass just finished and note that it’s midday…if Mass is just finished it can only mean one thing here, another Mass is about to start…perfect timing.
My energy levels have taken a dive with the hour’s trek around town in the heat, and the tonic while refreshing didn’t particularly quench my thirst…so it’s a struggle to keep up with Mass, nevertheless so very content to have made it!
The choir sing Gregorian chants with the ‘background accompaniment’ of whistles blowing from the local Catholic scouts outside practising whatever scouts practice. Catholic scouts are huge here…all dressed like you imagine scouts…a bit of a blast from the past but too cool at the same time.
I am a little disturbed by the priest’s homily where he says, to paraphrase, to the parents of the congregation – “You shouldn’t give anything of poor quality to God. Choose your most intelligent child, and he or she is the one you should consacrate to God in a religious vocation…” Sorry, what??!! First of all, can I name the number of saints who struggled to get through their theology degrees…and secondly, what about the call of God? It’s not just an offering of sacrifice, but a response to a call. Anyway, it was one of the more explicit examples I’ve seen in my time here of some of the ‘interesting’ attitudes that can arise in the context of the Church here in Congo (remembering that the presence of Church is always intricately linked with the culture in which She inserts herself).
Which reminds me, the other weekend in Goma, there was the installation of the new bishop – the old one was granted retirement by the Holy Father. The installation was of course a grand affair – a huge open air Mass of no less than 5 hours (I must admit I wasn’t there for the entirety…). And I was fascinated by the way they called it the “Passation de pouvoir” (Passing of power…). Rightly so, there is sort of passing of episcopal power, clearly, but it seemed rather striking (and again, reflective of the culture here) that this event was primarily identified with power.
In any case, I still returned the empty tonic bottle after Mass – just to reassure the lady who sold it to me. As for the interaction of Church and culture in the Congo, that I’m still getting my head around…
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